There’s a moment every spring when Sacramento temperatures hit the 80s and you look at your closed, covered pool and think “it’s time.” That first swim of the season is calling. But between you and that refreshing dip lies pool opening—a process that can feel overwhelming if you haven’t done it in a year.
I’m Cooper from Pinnacle Pool & Spa Services, and over the past decade of opening pools throughout Sacramento and the Bay Area, I’ve learned that spring opening doesn’t have to be intimidating. Sure, there are steps to follow and details that matter, but with the right approach, you can go from winterized to swim-ready in a weekend (or let us handle it if weekends are for enjoying pools, not working on them).
This guide walks you through everything I’ve learned from opening hundreds of pools—the essential steps, the common problems, the shortcuts that work, and the ones that definitely don’t. Whether you’re tackling this yourself or trying to understand what your pool service should be doing, let’s get your pool ready for another Sacramento summer.
Timing Your Pool Opening
One of the most common questions I get: “When should I open my pool?” And the answer that frustrates everyone: “It depends.”
When to Open in Northern California
Sacramento pool owners typically open pools in late March through April, depending on weather patterns. I tell people to watch for consistent daytime temperatures in the 70s and nighttime temps staying above 50°F. These conditions mean your pool water is warming enough that algae might start thinking about showing up—and you want to beat algae to the party.
Bay Area timing varies even more because microclimates make every neighborhood different. Some Bay Area pools never really close for winter, just get used less frequently. Others follow similar timing to Sacramento. The key is thinking about when you’ll actually want to swim, then opening about 2-3 weeks before that date.
Opening too early means you’re running equipment and managing chemistry for weeks before anyone swims—wasting energy and chemicals. Opening too late risks algae blooms that require extensive treatment before the pool is swimmable. I’ve cleaned up plenty of “we waited too long” pools, and trust me, it’s easier to open slightly early than fight the algae battle.
Planning Ahead
Here’s something I’ve learned the hard way: Everyone wants their pool opened the same week in April. If you’re calling for professional service, schedule in February or early March. By mid-April, we’re booked solid and you might wait weeks for an appointment—which defeats the purpose if you’re already frustrated looking at a closed pool.
If you’re doing it yourself, order chemicals and supplies in March before everyone else cleans out the pool stores. There’s nothing worse than being ready to shock your pool and finding out your favorite pool supply place is backordered on chlorine until next week.
Decide whether you’re tackling this as a weekend project or spreading it over several evenings. I prefer the weekend approach—start Saturday morning, and you’re swimming by Sunday afternoon. The phased approach works too, but momentum matters. Nothing’s sadder than a half-opened pool abandoned midway through.
Initial Assessment and Equipment Inspection
Before touching anything, walk around your pool and really look at it. I call this the “pre-flight check,” and it catches problems before they become disasters.
The Walk-Around Inspection
Look at your cover first—is there standing water? Debris piles? Any obvious damage? Note anything unusual before you start removing it. Check visible equipment for any signs of damage—cracked housings, chewed wiring (yes, rodents love pool equipment), or anything that looks different from how you left it.
This inspection takes five minutes but saves hours of frustration. I once had a customer who skipped this step and didn’t notice a crack in their pump housing until after they’d filled the pool and started the system—instant flood in the equipment area. Five minutes of looking would have caught it.
Pump and Motor Inspection
Your pump is the heart of your pool system, so it gets special attention. Look for any cracks in the housing—these often appear over winter from freeze-thaw cycles (rare in Sacramento but not impossible) or from that time you accidentally hit it with the lawn mower (don’t laugh, it happens).
Check shaft seals for any signs of previous leaking. If you see dried salt or chemical residue around the seal area, it might have been weeping last season. Not necessarily a problem yet, but worth watching closely.
Inspect all unions and connections—the O-rings can dry out over winter. I keep a small tube of pool equipment lubricant handy for this exact reason. A little lube on O-rings prevents leaks and makes reassembly much easier.
“Our pool pump was only working intermittently. Cooper was able to come out quickly and take a look, he got us back on track in no time. Super fast and friendly service. Extremely knowledgeable and very professional.”
— Jennifer C., Shingle Springs
Filter System Check
Filters take a beating over the season, and winter rest doesn’t fix problems that were brewing last fall. If you have a cartridge filter, pull the cartridges out and really look at them. Are they still holding their shape? Is the fabric tearing or separating? These are signs they need replacement, not just cleaning.
Sand and DE filters need valve inspection—those multiport valves have internal O-rings that eventually fail. Turn the valve through its positions and feel for smooth, positive clicks. If it’s loose or grinds, the valve might need service or replacement.
Check your pressure gauge—it should read zero when the system is off. If it shows pressure, the gauge is bad and needs replacement. You need an accurate pressure gauge to know when your filter needs cleaning.
Heater Inspection (if applicable)
Heaters are sensitive equipment that don’t like being ignored all winter. For gas heaters, look at the burner area for any signs of corrosion, rust, or debris. Check that the pilot light area is clear.
Electric heaters and heat pumps need electrical connection checks—look for any corrosion on terminals or loose connections. Heat pumps should have clean coils—debris buildup reduces efficiency and can damage the unit.
Honestly, if your heater is more than 10 years old or showed any problems last season, consider having a professional service it before the season starts. Heater repairs mid-summer when you have house guests planning to use your spa aren’t fun for anyone.
Pro Tip: Take photos during your inspection. Documenting equipment condition helps track changes over seasons and provides valuable information if you need professional service. Plus, if something goes wrong, you have “before” photos showing the condition.
Cover Removal and Debris Management
This step seems simple—take off the cover—but doing it wrong creates hours of extra work.
Safe Cover Removal
If you have standing water on your cover (and in Sacramento, you probably do after winter rains), pump or siphon it off first. Do NOT try to drag a water-filled cover off your pool. First, it’s incredibly heavy—I’ve seen two grown adults struggle with it. Second, all that dirty water will pour into your pool the moment you move the cover, creating a mess you’ll spend hours cleaning.
Get a cover pump or use a siphon. Patience here pays off tremendously. While you’re pumping, use a soft brush to push debris away from edges so it doesn’t fall in when you remove the cover.
Cover removal is genuinely a two-person job. I don’t care how strong you are—these covers are awkward, catch wind, and trying to solo it usually means debris ends up in the pool. One person on each side, fold or roll carefully, and keep it off the ground if possible.
Dealing with Accumulated Debris
Even with the best cover, some debris accumulates. Skim what you can reach immediately, but don’t stress about getting every leaf right now. You’ll do a thorough cleaning in the next step.
If your water looks like swamp soup—dark, murky, filled with decomposed organic matter—you have a decision. Sometimes it’s easier to partially drain and refill rather than trying to filter all that nastiness. I generally say if you can’t see the bottom at all, consider draining at least some water.
Cover Cleaning and Storage
Here’s where people get lazy, and I understand—you’re excited to work on the pool, not clean the cover. But cleaning your cover before storage extends its life by years. Leaves and debris left on covers over summer create mold, mildew, and deterioration.
Lay the cover out on the driveway or lawn, hose it thoroughly, brush away any stubborn debris, and let it dry completely before folding and storing. “Completely” means really dry—damp covers in storage become science experiments by next fall.
Store covers in a rodent-proof container in a cool, dry place. I’ve seen too many expensive covers destroyed by mice making nests in them over summer.
Deep Cleaning Process
Now comes the satisfying part—transforming that dingy pool into something you’d actually want to swim in.
Brushing Walls and Floor
Always brush before vacuuming. Always. I can’t emphasize this enough because it’s the most common mistake I see. Brushing loosens algae, dirt, and debris stuck to surfaces. If you vacuum first, you’re just pushing stuff around and missing half of what needs removal.
Start at the shallow end and work toward the deep end. Brush walls from top to bottom—gravity is your friend here. Use overlapping strokes and put some muscle into it. That winter grime won’t leave politely.
Pay special attention to corners, behind ladders, around steps, and any areas with poor circulation. These spots are where algae loves to hide. If you see any green or brown spots, brush them aggressively. Sometimes I’ll brush a stubborn spot, let circulation work for an hour, then brush again.
Vacuuming Settled Debris
After brushing (see, I mentioned it again), vacuum the settled debris. If you have a lot of debris, use your vacuum’s “waste” setting if available—this bypasses the filter and sends debris straight to waste. It uses more water, but it prevents clogging your filter with the heavy initial load.
For moderate debris, vacuum to filter normally. Go slowly—racing through vacuuming just stirs up debris and reduces efficiency. Overlapping passes ensure you catch everything.
You’ll probably need to vacuum again the next day. That first vacuum gets the obvious stuff, but overnight, more debris settles. A second pass the following day gets what you missed and what settled after circulation stirred things up.
Tile and Waterline Cleaning
That scum line at your waterline? It’s a combination of oils, sunscreen, and everything else that floated on your water last season. It won’t come off with a simple wipe.
Use a good tile and vinyl cleaner specifically made for pools. Apply it, let it work for a few minutes, then scrub with a tile brush. For stubborn stains, you might need to use a pumice stone (on tile only—never on vinyl or fiberglass).
Clean tiles make your entire pool look better. I’ve seen pools with perfect chemistry and balance that look dingy just because the waterline tile is dirty. Fifteen minutes with a tile brush makes a dramatic difference.
Plumbing and Circulation Restoration
This is where the mechanical side of pool opening happens. Take your time here—mistakes cause problems that range from annoying to expensive.
Removing Winterization Components
Pull out all those winterization plugs—from wall return fittings, from skimmers, from equipment. Check each plug as you remove it. Cracked or deteriorating plugs need replacement before next winter.
If you used Gizzmos (those threaded devices protecting skimmers), unscrew them carefully. If you used antifreeze (most Sacramento pools don’t need it, but some people use it anyway), expect the first water through the system to be tinted from residual antifreeze.
Replace all drain plugs on equipment—pump, filter, heater. Every single one. The number of calls I’ve gotten about “why won’t my pump hold water” that turn out to be a forgotten drain plug still missing is embarrassing for everyone involved.
System Reassembly
If you disconnected equipment or plumbing for winter, reconnect it now. Unions should hand-tighten snugly, then a quarter turn with slip-joint pliers. Don’t over-tighten—you’re trying to compress the O-ring seal, not test your strength.
Open valves in the correct sequence—suction-side valves first (from skimmers and main drain), then return-side valves. This prevents creating vacuum or pressure situations that stress equipment.
Double-check every connection before starting the pump. I know it sounds paranoid, but finding a loose connection after you’ve pressurized the system means shutting down, draining down, fixing it, and starting over. Five minutes of checking now saves an hour of frustration later.
Priming the Pump
Pumps need to be full of water before starting—this is “priming.” Self-priming pumps still need their housings filled initially. Remove the pump lid, fill the housing with water using a hose or bucket, replace the lid, and ensure it seats properly with the O-ring in place.
Open the air relief valve on your filter (that little knob on top). Start the pump and watch for water to start flowing. Air will purge through that relief valve—when you see solid water coming out, close the valve.
The pump should prime within a minute or two. If it doesn’t, shut it off, check for air leaks (loose lid, bad O-ring, closed valve), fix the problem, and try again. Never let a pump run dry for more than a minute—it can damage seals and impeller.
Initial System Startup
Once primed, let the system run and walk around checking every connection for leaks. Look at unions, valve stems, equipment connections—everywhere water flows. A small drip now becomes a bigger drip later, so tighten anything that’s weeping.
Listen to your equipment. It should sound like flowing water and a quiet motor. Grinding, squealing, or rattling sounds mean problems. Shut down and investigate rather than hoping sounds go away.
Note your filter’s pressure reading once the system is running—this is your “clean” baseline. Write it down somewhere. When pressure rises 8-10 psi above this number during the season, it’s time to clean or backwash your filter.
Pro Tip: Run your circulation system for a full day before adding chemicals. This ensures everything works properly and helps you identify any issues while water chemistry is less critical. Fixing leaks in balanced water is the same as fixing them in unbalanced water, but you’ll feel less rushed.
Water Chemistry and Balancing
Chemistry intimidates people, but it follows logical steps. Do them in order and you’ll be fine.
Initial Water Testing
Test your water before adding anything. You need to know where you’re starting. Test for pH, total alkalinity, calcium hardness, and chlorine (probably zero after winter). If you have a salt system, test salt level too.
Don’t be surprised by weird readings. Winter does strange things to water chemistry. Low chlorine is expected. pH might be high or low depending on your water chemistry and what fell into the pool. Alkalinity probably dropped. This is all normal.
The Balancing Sequence
Order matters in chemical addition because some chemicals affect others. Always adjust in this sequence:
- Total alkalinity first – This is your pH buffer. Get alkalinity right (80-120 ppm), and pH becomes easier to manage. Add alkalinity increaser if needed, circulate for several hours, and retest.
- pH adjustment second – Once alkalinity is correct, adjust pH to 7.2-7.6. Most pools need pH increaser (soda ash) after winter. Add it, circulate for several hours, retest.
- Calcium hardness third – Especially important for plaster pools. Target 200-400 ppm. Low calcium can etch plaster, high calcium creates scaling. Add calcium chloride if needed.
- Sanitizer last – Whether chlorine, bromine, or salt, add your sanitizer after the other parameters are balanced. Balanced water makes sanitizers more effective.
Shocking and Super-Chlorination
Every pool needs shocking at opening. Shocking means adding a large chlorine dose that kills anything living in your water—bacteria, algae spores, everything you don’t want breeding in your summer swimming pool.
Use calcium hypochlorite shock (the granular kind) at double or triple the normal dose. Follow package directions for your pool size, but don’t be shy—this is the time to go heavy on chlorine. Add shock in the evening, run circulation overnight, and test again in the morning.
If water was green or very cloudy, you might need to shock again. The goal is reaching and maintaining a chlorine level that turns water from cloudy to clear within 24-48 hours.
Addressing Specific Problems
Green water means algae won. You’ll need aggressive shocking—sometimes four or five times the normal shock dose—plus algaecide, plus constant circulation, plus daily brushing. Green pools can take 3-5 days to clear if the algae bloom is bad.
Metal staining (rust or copper-colored stains on surfaces) requires metal sequestrant before shocking. Otherwise, shocking can set those stains permanently. If you see colored stains, add sequestrant first, wait 24 hours, then shock.
High total dissolved solids (TDS) from winter concentration sometimes means partially draining and refilling is more practical than trying to chemically balance. If TDS exceeds 2,500 ppm, consider replacing some water.
Water Level Management
Achieving proper water level sounds simple but has nuances worth understanding.
Achieving Proper Level
Water should sit at the midpoint of your skimmer opening—roughly halfway up the skimmer face. Too low and the skimmer can’t pull water properly (and your pump might lose prime or suck air). Too high and the skimmer doesn’t skim effectively.
Fill slowly with a garden hose. While filling, be productive—clean equipment, check for leaks, brush the pool. Multi-tasking makes fill time disappear.
If you’re in Sacramento, know that source water here is hard—lots of calcium and minerals. Filling a pool adds a significant calcium load. Test and adjust hardness after filling completes to avoid immediate scaling problems.
Dealing with Low Water
If water dropped significantly over winter, you might have a leak. Before filling, do a bucket test (see our At-Home Diagnostics page for instructions). Verify the water loss is normal seasonal drop and evaporation, not a leak wasting water as you fill.
Filling costs real money—Sacramento water isn’t free. A typical pool fill runs $100-200 depending on size and water rates. If you’re filling and the level keeps dropping, find the leak first. Our Pool and Spa Leak Detection services can identify problems before you waste money filling a leaking pool.
“I was losing so much water and having to add a lot of water every day. Cooper was able to come out quickly and inspect my pool, he performed pressure tests to check the plumbing and also did a dye test throughout the pool, he ended up finding and repairing multiple leaks at a reasonable price.”
— Sofia Ramos, Arden-Arcade
Final Checks and Swim Readiness
You’re close! Just a few final items before declaring victory.
Safety Inspections
Walk around checking safety items—they’re easy to forget but critical. Make sure deck and coping are stable with no loose sections or trip hazards. Handrails and ladders should be firmly mounted—give them an aggressive shake to verify. Check fence gates for proper closing and latching—safety equipment that doesn’t work isn’t safety equipment.
Test any electrical equipment—lights should work, GFCIs should trip when tested, and nothing should spark or smell burnt. If you have any electrical concerns whatsoever, call an electrician before using the pool.
Equipment Performance Verification
Run through every system checking proper operation. Pump flowing smoothly? Filter pressure normal? Heater igniting properly? Returns all flowing? Skimmer pulling correctly?
This is also when you verify no leaks appeared after pressurizing the system. Some leaks only show under operating pressure, so checking everything while running catches problems that weren’t visible during setup.
Water Quality Confirmation
Your water should be clear—you should see the bottom drain clearly from the shallow end. Chemistry should be balanced with proper sanitizer levels. No visible debris or contaminants should remain.
Run a final test strip or liquid test confirming everything is in range. When all parameters hit target ranges, you’re safe to swim.
Establishing Maintenance Routine
Don’t stop now! Opening the pool is just the beginning. Establish your routine:
- Test water 2-3 times weekly initially, adjusting to once weekly once chemistry stabilizes
- Run pump 8-12 hours daily during summer (varies by pool size and use)
- Skim and brush weekly minimum
- Clean baskets weekly
- Check equipment weekly for issues
Consistency in maintenance prevents problems from developing. An hour a week of maintenance beats an entire weekend spent fighting algae or fixing neglected equipment.
Common Opening Problems and Solutions
Even with careful work, problems happen. Here’s what I’ve seen most often and how to address them.
Green or Black Water
Algae blooms over winter are frustrating but treatable. Brush aggressively, shock heavily (triple or quadruple normal dose), add algaecide, and run circulation 24/7 until clear. This can take 3-7 days for bad blooms.
Black algae is the worst—it roots into plaster and resists normal treatment. If you have black algae spots, you might need professional treatment including acid washing or aggressive brushing with chlorine tabs directly on spots.
Equipment Won’t Start
First, check obvious things—power, switches, breakers, timers. I’ve driven to “broken” pools where the timer was just set wrong. Check that first before assuming the worst.
If the pump won’t prime, check for air leaks (loose lid, cracked housing, closed valves). If the motor hums but doesn’t spin, capacitors might have failed—this is a professional repair.
Filter valves stuck or won’t turn might need lubrication or replacement. Don’t force them—you can crack valve bodies.
Leaks Discovered During Opening
Finding leaks during opening is actually good timing—you’re catching them before wasting water all season. Common leak spots include return fittings, light niches, skimmers, and underground plumbing.
Small structural leaks might need patching. Equipment leaks might need seal or O-ring replacement. Underground plumbing leaks require professional detection and repair.
When you discover leaks, addressing them immediately saves water and prevents secondary damage. We’ve seen pools where leaks went unaddressed all season, causing soil erosion and deck settlement that cost far more than the original leak repair would have.
Professional vs. DIY Opening
I’m biased—I open pools for a living. But I try to be honest about when DIY makes sense and when it doesn’t.
What DIY Pool Owners Can Handle
If you’re reasonably handy, comfortable with basic mechanical work, and have a simple pool system (standard pump, filter, and chlorine sanitization), DIY opening is totally doable. It takes a weekend, costs $100-200 in chemicals and supplies, and gives you satisfaction from doing it yourself.
You’ll need basic tools—screwdrivers, pliers, pool brush, vacuum, test kit—and patience to follow the process methodically. If you have time and enjoy the work, DIY saves $300-500 compared to professional opening.
When Professional Service Makes Sense
Complex equipment—salt systems, elaborate automation, heat pumps—benefits from professional expertise. We see these systems daily and know their quirks. First-time pool owners often find professional service worthwhile for learning how systems work before tackling it themselves.
Time constraints make professional service valuable. If your weekends are precious and you’d rather spend them swimming than working, we get it. We can open a typical pool in 2-4 hours—what might take you all weekend.
Problem diagnosis is where professional experience really pays off. That weird noise from your pump? I’ve heard it before and know what it means. That green tint in your water? I’ve treated hundreds of algae blooms and know the fastest path to clear water.
“Outstanding service!!! They are simply amazing and do exceptional work. In addition they were extremely well priced and provided me with the highest quality materials that will last 20 years. Pinnacle Pools seems motivated not by money but by customer service.”
— Patrick H., Sacramento
What Professional Opening Includes
When we open a pool, we’re doing everything in this guide plus bringing a decade of experience spotting problems before they become expensive. We inspect equipment thoroughly, identify potential issues, and recommend solutions. We ensure chemistry is perfect for safe swimming. And if something’s broken, we can often fix it on the spot rather than you discovering it three days later.
We also warranty our work. If something we did doesn’t work correctly, we come back and make it right. DIY doesn’t come with that guarantee.
Your Summer Awaits
Opening your pool marks the beginning of another season of family memories, relaxation, and enjoyment. Whether you tackle the process yourself or call us to handle it, the important thing is getting it done properly. A good opening prevents problems all season and ensures your pool is safe and ready when summer heat arrives.
I’ve opened thousands of pools throughout Sacramento and the Bay Area over the years, and I still get satisfaction from that moment when murky winter water transforms into crystal-clear swimming water. It’s worth the effort.
If you decide professional opening makes sense for your situation, we’d love to help. Pinnacle Pool & Spa Services has been opening pools since 2012, and we’ve learned what works in Northern California’s unique climate. From El Dorado Hills to Walnut Creek, Granite Bay to Orinda, we help hundreds of families get their pools ready every spring.
But if you’re doing it yourself, I hope this guide helps you avoid the mistakes I’ve seen and gives you confidence that you can absolutely do this. Take your time, follow the steps, and don’t be afraid to call for help if you hit a snag.
Your summer of poolside fun awaits—let’s get that pool open!
Contact Pinnacle Pool & Spa Services for professional pool opening: Sacramento Area: (916) 530-2096 | Bay Area: (925) 849-6545 | Toll Free: (888) 994-7665 (POOL)
Professional pool opening, maintenance, and repair services for residential and commercial properties throughout Northern California.
